Here’s a recently completed 1.64ct oval ruby set in a rectangular silver in copper pendant. The setting features four individually soldered fine silver prongs. These were rounded over with cup burrs, and the notches that hold the stone were cut with hart burrs.

This stone is a particularly interesting case- I have confidence that it’s genuine, bought from one of my regular suppliers, and it’s clearer than the other rubies that I have. But I suspect that it is flawed. You can’t see it under normal light, but with a strong sidelight you can see a reflection that suggests an internal crack in the stone… not a continuous fracture through the entire gem, but a partial break. In this case that’s a good thing… a ruby of this size and color would easily cost me $2,900, and I wouldn’t want to mess with such an expensive stone. This stone cost much less- I can set it without it causing myself an ulcer- yet it’s still very beautiful, and it is a real ruby. The new owner may need to treat it a little gently- like, don’t go whacking it with a hammer or anything-, but it held up under the pressure of setting with flying colors. This necklace is available at the time of writing at $360.