Like most new jewelers, I bought some jeweler’s hand tools years ago when I was first starting out. They were pretty cheap and basic, and they worked okay. But I recently wondered if I couldn’t come up with something better. I was a blacksmith for many years, (I was the editor for ABANA’s Hammer’s Blow from 1999-2009) and toolmaking is a big part of that job, so it not a foreign concept to me. Plus I have a large sheet of scrap brass that I’ve been hauling around for years, so I thought it would be good to use it for something useful. And I really enjoy making and using nice, handmade tools.
My first concept was an improved bezel roller. The cheap chinese ones work, but the steel heads are rather small and prone to slipping and scratching the steel. I designed a larger, wider head, with curved edges at the back that allows your fingers to comfortably work closer to the head. All the sharp edges were sanded over, and I put a high polish on them with a buffing wheel.
I also redesigned the handles. Most, if not all, of the bezel handles you see are turned on a lathe… not because it’s the best way to do it, but because it’s cheap to mass-produce wooden parts on a lathe. I prefer octagonal handles- the flats give you a much better rotational grip, it’s comfortable to use in your hand, and it’s less likely to roll off your bench. I make these in two styles… one is asymmetrical, and the other is more teardrop-shaped. Both work well, it’s more a matter of personal preference. All my tools are “signed” and numbered, just like the jewelry that I make. I sell these for $24 each plus $5 shipping.
The wood that I’ve been using is mostly oak, and the beauty of these tools’ small size means that I can mostly use scrap wood. The very first batch of tools that I made had white oak handles recycled from a discarded bed frame. I’ve also made a bunch from willow oak. This is a nice, tight-grained hardwood that isn’t commercially available… but I have a willow oak tree in our front yard. Whenever I prune it, I set aside a few pieces. These handles are a perfect use for them. They tend to be a little more figure to the grain, with small knots throughout, but I think it adds interest. Recently, though, I bought a small box of hardwood scrap from a cabinet shop. It contains some nice cherry, maple, and walnut, so I’ll be making some handles from these woods in the near future.
The next group of tools I decided to try was pushers. These are typically made of steel, but I wanted brass. Brass is softer than steel, and it takes a very nice high polish. Prong pushers have a shallow notch in the tip, and bezel pushers have a flat. Teardrop handles seem to be best for this style of tool. Since the tool is simpler, these are a bit cheaper at $21 each plus $5 shipping.
My third group of tools is a bit of a secret weapon. It’s also a bezel roller, but instead of brass, I’ve used aluminum. The aluminum is soft… much softer than silver. And as a result, the face of the tool gets dented and marked with use. The advantage, though, is that the soft tool doesn’t mark the silver- it marks the tool- and the tool rarely slips. The face of the tool is easily renewed with a few swipes of a sanding stick, if necessary. Even though it’s soft, it lasts a long time. I’ve been using an aluminum bezel roller for a few years now, and mine still performs as good as when it was first made. To be fair, I’m not a production jeweler and don’t set dozens of stones per day… a brass roller might be better in that situation. But I do like the way it performs. These are available at $21 each, plus $5 shipping.
I do have yet a fourth group of tools, but this one really is a secret. I’m not going to make these available until I at least get a copyright filed (I’m doubtful about a patent for these. MAYBE they could be patented, but that’s a very expensive process. And at $24 a pop, I’d have to sell a ton of these before I could afford the filing fees. Copyright registration is a much simpler and less expensive, and though the protection is much more limited, it’s better than nothing. Watch this space, more info is coming soon!
Fine Art by Brian Gilbert 